34th Street as reflected by the Manhattan Mall. Photo taken 2/17/06."New York City / such a beautiful disease." Often when I walk around the city I find myself humming
that Norah Jones and Peter Malick song.
Here's a New York story for you. True story. Happened not long ago, in fact.
Last month while waiting to get on the downtown R train that had started pulling up at Times Square, I noticed that one car passing by was devoid of people, which would have been surprising given how all the other cars before it were crowded enough to even have passengers standing. But I, like any veteran New Yorker, knew immediately why, without needing to see the rest of that empty car. Sure enough when its rear passed me I saw what I deduced all along: There at one of the last benches slumped a homeless man, hands tucked inside his coat pockets, his head bent to his chest in deep sleep. And I, like all the others standing on the ramp, knew not to get inside that car. The air would be rank, fetid. Without having to test my own nose, I knew that the man smelled so bad that no one else would ride with him.
The passengers who got on the adjacent car with me were the chattier type than, say, the more tight-lipped, newspaper-reading crowds of rush hour. This was, after all, 1:30 in the afternoon. Two young Japanese women stood in front of me, giggling uproariously as they spoke in their language. One of them kept putting a finger across the bottom of her nose, and on they would laugh and banter again. A woman two seats away was muttering about how she "knew what it was all about." "Hmm-mm-mmm," she said, shaking her head. She sounded like she caught a kid in the midst of mischief.
A man wearing a long wool coat and a ski hat stood in front of her. He seemed to have been saying something to her already, but this time I caught the beginning of a story. "I was on the Bronx train one night, and there was a homeless man there who smelled so bad. I'm sure he smelled just as bad as the one here," he said, pointing his chin to the train car ahead of us.
"There was only him, me, this shifty looking guy, and this woman," he said. "The train kept going, just the four of us. When the train was pulling into Manhattan, the shifty looking guy grabs the woman's purse and makes a run for the door that was about to open.
"And then the homeless guy, who I thought was asleep -- and, man, this guy stank -- he jumped up. He just jumped. He jumped in front of this guy, and then he pins him to the ground and right then there handcuffs him.
"It was unbelievable," the man said. "You should have seen that other guy's face. You just never know about these undercover people.
"I couldn't believe it," he continued. "I couldn't believe that some of these homeless guys are undercover. So what I'm saying is, it could be any of them."
I didn't hear what the woman said in response. I think they moved on to a new topic. But I sat there amazed. Here was New York, an incredible, potent gift that is just waiting for me on the days I will myself to step out of the house.
I got off at Union Square and walked towards the southern end of the ramp, the same direction as where the almost-empty car was. The doors began closing and the train was starting to pull away when a noxious odor slammed me so hard that I flinched, my eyes almost watering from the smell. It was coming from the train car in question. Its doors were already closing when I came near it, so the most I got was five inches of its air before it sealed shut and the train moved on. I kept walking, thinking of the man inside. I just thought of him for a few more minutes, without pity or repulsion.